Why you should invest in vintage Valentino

Advice from somebody who’s boyfriend works in finance, is 6,2 foot and has blue eyes.

Feb 07, 2025

It’s June 2023. I started working for Gucci. The last remnants of Alessandro Michele’s reign were still in stores, following his departure in 2022. Our product storytelling was focused on his genius—something I’m incredibly grateful to have been part of.

Gucci’s transformation from the ultra-chic Frida Giannini period to the groundbreaking Alessandro Michele era was the main reason I became interested in high fashion back in 2017. Before that, my focus was on sourcing the most unique and high-quality pieces from vintage and thrift stores, regardless of the brand or designer. But when I saw how many Gucci runway pieces resembled garments I had found, I fell in love with Michele’s vision.

I remember my former boss telling me that meeting Alessandro for the first time was like meeting God. It probably helped that he looked the part—long dark hair, eyes full of emotion, and an aura of creative divinity.

Alessandro & Valentino, An Unexpected Pairing

It was only a matter of time before the fashion world discovered which legendary house Alessandro’s magic would touch next. But Valentino? That wasn’t my first guess.

Over my 10 years as a vintage trader, I’ve come across many Valentino and Oliver pieces in stores and online. I always bought them for their impeccable quality—Valentino is, after all, one of the most recognisable and prestigious luxury brands in the world. Even today, I have a large collection of Valentino wool and silk garments. But groundbreaking? I had never really thought of Valentino in that way.

Turns out, I had never truly explored the history of the house. So, here’s what I learned…

A Brief History of Valentino

Valentino Garavani founded his eponymous luxury fashion house in 1960. His international debut took place in 1962 in Florence, then Italy’s fashion capital. In 1967, Valentino broke away from the psychedelic patterns dominating the era with his “No Color” collection—white, beige, and ivory designs that stood in stark contrast to the trends of the time.

Women’s Wear Daily declared in 1968: “Americans go crazy for this Italian who has become king of fashion in a short time.” After the dazzling all-white show, filled with sculptural cloaks and barely draped dresses, his success snowballed, season after season.

The couturier quickly became the leading force of Italian fashion, dressing aristocrats, socialites, and Hollywood royalty, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Princess Diana, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor.

Valentino’s Love Affair with Red

If there’s one signature element synonymous with Valentino, it’s the red dress.

Introduced in his first Spring-Summer 1959 collection, the strapless mid-length tulle dress named La Fiesta marked the birth of Valentino Red—a color so iconic it has its own Pantone formula (100% magenta, 100% yellow, 10% black).

Valentino’s obsession with red started in his student years when he attended an opera in Barcelona. He recalled:

“Enthralled, I saw a woman with grey hair in one of the boxes, very beautiful, dressed in red velvet. Among all the colors worn by the other women, she looked unique, isolated in her splendor. I told myself that if I were ever going to become a designer, I would do lots of red.”

And so he did.

Valentino’s Creative Evolution

In 1999, Valentino brought in Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli as accessory designers, a duo that would go on to shape the brand’s modern identity. By 2003, they introduced Red Valentino, the brand’s diffusion line.

Valentino stepped down in 2007, passing the creative baton to Alessandra Facchinetti, who lasted only a year before being replaced by Chiuri and Piccioli as co-creative directors. In 2016, Chiuri left to lead Dior, leaving Piccioli as the sole creative director—a position he held until early 2024, when Alessandro Michele was announced as his successor.

Alessandro’s Valentino Debut: A Love Letter to the Archives

Now that we’re all caught up on Valentino’s history, let’s talk about why we’re here: Alessandro Michele’s first Haute Couture collection for the house.

One thing that stood out immediately? His many references to early Valentino Garavani designs. But should we be surprised? Alessandro has always drawn from vintage and antique garments—it’s a cornerstone of his creative process. At Gucci, however, there wasn’t as much room for high-fashion historical references, given the brand’s roots in travel and leather goods.

With Valentino, Alessandro finally has the playground to explore couture traditions. And he’s making the most of it.

I’ve put together side-by-side comparisons of his debut couture collection and the archival Valentino pieces that inspired them. Scroll down to see the connections for yourself.

Why Vintage Valentino Is a Smart Investment

Let’s talk strategy—fashion investment strategy. While my boyfriend talks stocks before I’ve even had my morning coffee, my portfolio is a little different: I invest in vintage fashion. And right now, Vintage Valentino is a ‘stock’ worth buying.

But this isn’t just about trends. For me, investing in vintage is about something bigger: a better future. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world, and by choosing vintage, we extend the life cycle of beautifully made garments rather than supporting endless production cycles.

Beyond sustainability, there’s the magic of wearing something with history. Vintage pieces last longer, are often made with higher-quality materials, and allow you to be truly unique in a world of mass production. When you wear a vintage Valentino gown, you’re not just wearing a dress—you’re carrying a piece of fashion history, a legacy of craftsmanship.

With Alessandro Michele drawing heavily from the house’s archives, there’s no better time to invest in original Valentino pieces. Just like in finance, the key to fashion investment is spotting patterns—what goes up must come down, and what was once overlooked can suddenly become highly populair. Michele’s references to past decades will inevitably drive up demand for vintage Valentino, making now the perfect time to buy before prices skyrocket.

Look for classic pieces: impeccably tailored Valentino Red gowns, structured wool coats, silk blouses with signature detailing. These are the ‘blue-chip stocks’ of the fashion world—timeless, valuable, and likely to appreciate over time.

So if you’re looking to diversify your wardrobe assets, consider this your insider tip: vintage Valentino is the next big thing. And unlike stocks, you get to wear your investment.

With all my love,

Immanuela

Founder Epoque